BS EN 567:2013 pdf download – Mountaineering equipment — Rope clamps — Safety requirements and test methods
1 Scope
This European Standard applies to rope clamps used with dynamic mountaineering ropes according toEN 892 or accessory cord according to EN 564 and low stretch kernmantel ropes according to EN 1891.
2Normative references
The following documents,in whole or in part,are normatively referenced in this document and areindispensable for its application.For dated references, only the edition cited applies.For undated references,the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 564,Mountaineering equipment — Accessory cord — Safety requirements and test methods
EN 892, Mountaineering equipment -Dynamic mountaineering ropes —Safety requirements and testmethods
EN 1891,Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height — Low stretch kernmantelropes
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
rope clamp
mechanical device which, if attached to a rope or an accessory cord of appropriate diameter, will clamp underload in one direction and move freely in the opposite direction
3.2
locking device
device that, when closed around a rope, prevents the unintended removal of the rope from the rope clamp4Safety requirements
4.1Design
4.1.1 Rope clamps shall have a locking device or similar mechanism that, if closed prevents a rope or anaccessory cord with a diameter within the range marked on the rope clamp (see Clause 6) from beingremoved from the rope clamp.The rope clamps shall be designed in such a way that when used inaccordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, at least two independent actions shall be needed, before therope or accessory cord can be released from the rope clamp.
4.1.2 When tested according to 5.2.2 rope clamps shall clamp onto a rope or an accessory cord in onedirection and to move freely in the opposite direction.
4.1.3 When tested according to 5.3.1 rope clamps shall not completely break the rope or accessory cord.
4.1.4 When tested according to 5.2.3 rope clamps shall have an attachment point of at least diameter13 mm (see Figure 1). The edges of all openings for handles and connectors or sling attachment shall be asshown in Figure 1.
4.1.5 When tested according to 5.2.1 all edges of a rope clamp shall be free of burrs.
4.2 Strength
4.2.1 When tested according to 5.3.1, rope clamps with a rope or accessory cord of diameter within the range marked on the rope clamp (see Clause 6) attached shall show no visible signs of damage or
deformation which can impair its function.
4.2.2 When tested according to 5.3.2 the rope or accessory cord shall not be detached from the rope clamp at the force of at least 400 N.
4.2.3 When tested according to 5.3.3 the rope or accessory cord shall not be detached from the rope clamp at the force of at least 2 000 N.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test conditions
Carry out the tests at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C.
5.2 Examination of design
5.2.1 General
Test by tactile examination that the edges of the rope clamp are free of burrs.
5.2.2 Function
With the locking device closed and a rope or accessory cord of maximum diameter, as marked on the rope clamp, check that the rope or accessory cord cannot be removed sideways. Check also, by pulling by hand,that the rope clamp locks in one direction and can slip in the opposite direction. Repeat the checks using a
rope or accessory cord of minimum diameter as marked on the rope clamp.
5.2.3 Attachment
Determine the dimension of the attachment opening (see 4.1.4) by measuring with a bar of (13 01 , 00 + ) mm diameter.
5.3 Strength test
5.3.1 Determination of the strength
Attach a rope according to EN 892 or EN 1891 or accessory cord according to EN 564 of maximum diameter as marked on the rope clamp, to the rope clamp as specified by the manufacturer and a connector in the attachment point of the rope clamp. Fix the system in a tensile testing machine and load it with a force of (4 ± 0,1) kN using a test speed of (100 ± 50) mm/min. Release the load immediately. Repeat four more times.